New England vs. Manhattan Clam Chowder

Game on! You shouldn't be surprised to learn we're not really big into football. Each year I try to get excited about watching the "big game" but then it always ends up the same. Every time I look at the roaring TV, the teams just seem to be standing around waiting. Then during halftime one of the Jacksons lip syncs while grabbing their bits. End of story.

So, after tossing $5 (I'll never see again) into the office pool this year, I figured out a better way to get into the game day spirit: pitting two recipes against one another. That's right! New England chowder goes clam to clam with Manhattan, pantry-style!

By pantry-style, I mean you don't have to get up early and hit the water on your Downeaster Alexa or even go to the fish market for that matter. It's relatively convenient and inexpensive. You *might* even already have most of the ingredients. See, here, we used canned clams and bottled juice for the actual chowders. Don't be fooled by the photo. We only added fresh clams in the end as a sort of topper, but that's completely optional and unnecessary.

For the cream-based New England Clam Chowder I referred to The Best Recipe, a collection from the Massachusetts-based Cooks Illustrated. They had a "master" version as well as pantry-style substitutes for those short on time. I also used my own alternatives where I could to try to tone down the decadence a bit. Of course, we took these substitutes and used them for both recipes to play fair. For the tomato-based Manhattan Clam Chowder, I used Tyler Florence's recipe from Eat This Book.I realize this could've given New England an advantage, because Tyler isn't a NYC-native, but rest assured he can definitely hold his own with this chowder thing.

First I started to make the New England clam chowder, fully expecting it would be my personal first place. I mean, c'mon... isn't it the favorite? It showed a solid offense with creamy and clammy full-bodied flavor.

But then as I started making the Manhattan style, I realized competition was fierce. The bright green of the celery kicked things off in another direction right away. Then the heat of the pork added another layer. I figured Louisiana Margaret would like the spicier Andouille sausaged Manhattan version better, but, to my surprise I couldn't stop tasting it myself. The spiciness was perfect and the Andouille just melts in your mouth. These chowders were pretty much head to head for both of us. We might just have to go into overtime or sudden death and make another batch to declare a winner!

So, if you're having a party later today, this is another fun thing to consider doing. Instead of just wings and beer or whatever, think about stacking a few bowls on the counter and having these two pots simmering and ready-to-eat on the stove. The base ingredients are pretty much the same, and you can do all the chopping for both chowders at the beginning, so it's not a lot of extra time and effort. Plus, it'll give those of us not into the game something else to cheer about.

New England Clam Chowder, Pantry-Style
Serves 6

4 (6.5 oz) cans chopped clams, juice drained and reserved*
2 (8 oz) bottles clam juice along with 1 cup of water*
4 slices thick-cut (turkey) bacon, cut into 1/4" pieces
2 Tbsp of extra virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 Tbsp flour
3 med. waxy red boiling potatoes (1 1/2 lbs), scrubbed & diced
1 large bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/4 tsp dried thyme
1 cup of light (or heavy) cream
2 Tbsp minced fresh parsley leaves
salt & ground pepper

1. If you choose to use fresh clams instead, see note below. Fry bacon in a stock pot over medium-low heat for about 5-7 minutes. Add onion to bacon and saute until softened. If you use turkey bacon you may need a a bit of extra moisture, so drizzle a little extra virgin olive oil as needed to coat.

2. Add flour; stir until lightly colored, about 1 minute. Gradually whisk in reserved clam broth, clam juice and water (about 4.5 to 5 cups of liquid total).

3. Add potatoes, bay leaf, and thyme; simmer until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Add clam meat, cream, parsley, salt (if necessary) and ground pepper to taste; bring to simmer. Remove from heat and serve.

*If you choose to use fresh clams, select 7 pounds medium sized hard-shell clams, such as cherrystones, washed and scrubbed clean. Any clams more than 3-inches in diameter will deliver an inky-flavored chowder, so try to go smaller than that. Bring clams and 3 cups of water to a boil in large covered soup pot. Steam until clams just start to open, about 3-5 minutes. Discard any clams that do not open. Transfer clams to large bowl; cool slightly. Open clams with a paring knife, holding clams over a bowl to catch any juices. With knife, sever muscle that attaches clam to shell and transfer meat to cutting board. Mince clams; set aside. Pour clam broth into 2-quart Pyrex measuring cup, holding back the last few tablespoons of broth in case of sediment; set clam broth aside (about 5 cups). Rinse and dry kettle; return to burner to fry bacon. Use the reserved clam broth and clam meat as noted in the recipe above. If you use reserved clam broth here, you probably won't need the additional cup of water mentioned in the recipe.

Adapted from The Best Recipe.

Manhattan Clam Chowder, Pantry-Style
Serves 6

4 (6.5 oz) cans of chopped clams, juice drained and reserved**
2 (8 oz) bottles clam juice along with 1 cup water
3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil (or butter)
1 large yellow onion, roughly chopped
2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, chopped
4 oz Andouille (or chorizo) sausage link, sliced into 1/2" rounds
1 Tbsp flour
8 medium peeled tomatoes (we used canned), pureed in a food processor
1 Tbsp sugar
1 Tbsp red pepper flakes
2 sprigs of fresh thyme or 1/4 tsp dried thyme
1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
2 waxy red potatoes, scrubbed and cubed
4-5 dry sundried tomatoes (optional)

1. In a large saucepot, heat olive oil over medium heat and toss in the onion, celery, garlic, and sausage; cook 4-5 minutes until the onion is wilted and translucent. Stir in the flour until it blends into a paste.

2. Slowly whisk in the clam broth until smooth. Add tomatoes and sugar and give a good stir. Toss in the pepper flakes, thyme, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Add the potatoes, bring to a boil, and boil hard for about 5-10 minutes or until the potatoes start to break down. Then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Add clams* and simmer an additional 8 minutes or longer as flavors come together. Season again as needed and serve.

**If you choose to use fresh clams, select about 7 pounds medium sized hard-shell clams, such as cherrystones, washed and scrubbed clean. Toss them in where it says to add clams and simmer for about 8 minutes until clams open. Discard any clams that did not open.

Adapted from Eat This Bookby Tyler Florence.

Good Gourd!

As everyone starts hustling and bustling to the grocery stores for Thanksgiving week, I thought it was only appropriate to offer up a potential "amuse-bouche" to kick-off the big meal!

Whoa! Whoa! Wait a minute! Okay, I know what you're thinking. Am I out of my mind?

Perhaps there's no way you can add one more thing to the menu or squeeze another bowl onto your already "cornucopious" holiday table. If that's the case, then great! Before dinner be sure to give thanks for the abundance in your life.

But we both know by Sunday you'll be tired of turkey sandwiches and looking for something light to recover from the glorious gluttony days before. That's where this sweet and savory treat really comes in handy. Not to mention, it puts those colorful, decorative gourds you bought around Halloween to a good and practical use.

I used a combination of butternut, acorn, and carnival squash. I would recommend using the butternut for half and then experimenting with whatever other winter squash you have available to you.

I served this soup in small portions, but if you do this it's likely people will want seconds. Specifically, I used a set of small 2 x 2 x 2 square bowls sometimes seen in Asian dining. I floated a single oversized crouton or what I call "prosciuttons" of toasted bread topped with smoked Gruyere and crisp prosciutto. Our vegetarian readers will, of course, skip this ingredient (it's the only meat and it's optional), but the salt of the prosciutto really adds a nice dimension to the hint of sweetness in the soup.

Acorn & Butternut Squash Soup with Prosciuttons™
Serves 4-6

1 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 stick butter
2-3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
4 cups (or 2 lbs) of butternut squash
4 cups (or 2 lbs) of acorn, carnival or comparable squash
32-40 ounces of chicken broth (depending on how thick you like your soup)
1 1/4 tsp minced thyme
1 1/4 tsp minced sage
1/4 cup half and half
2-3 tsp of sugar (season to taste)
Additional "prosciutton" ingredients listed below

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 1 or 2 baking sheets with aluminum foil. This depends on if you'll be baking them in batches or all together.

2. Cut squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Brush or drizzle the squash halves with olive oil. Place them face down on the baking sheets and bake for 20 minutes or until you can pierce them with a fork. Remove from the oven. If you used olive oil on the faces, they should be slightly caramelized.

3. Melt butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and saute for 10 minutes or until tender.

4. Spoon out the flesh of the squash to measure 8 cups and add to the onions and garlic along with the chicken broth, sage, and thyme. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and cover. Simmer for 20 minutes until the squash is very tender.

5. Working in batches if necessary, puree soup with blender. Return soup to the same pot. (A hand immersion blender really comes in handy here, b/c you can keep the soup in the same pot to puree)

6. Stir in half and half and sugar. Bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Serve or chill and reheat later.*

*The soup can be made one day ahead, but prepare the "prosciuttons" immediately before serving.

*************
Prosciuttons

2 Tbsp (1/4 stick) butter
8-12 (1/4-inch-thick) baguette slices
8-12 slivers/slices of cheese, Gruyere
1/4 lb prosciutto, fat trimmed (optional)

1. Preheat broiler. Butter one side of each bread slice and arrange buttered-side up on a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

2. Broil 1 minute or until golden. Be sure to stay nearby. These can burn very easily!!

3. Turn over and top each piece with a slice of cheese and a small fold of prosciutto. Broil until cheese melts and prosciutto starts to get a little crispy around the edges, about 1 minute.

4. Top each bowl of soup with 1-2 of these croutons. Serve!

Recipe enhanced from Bon Appetit.

Troy's Famous Red Bean Soup

Since I'm down in Louisiana this week visiting my family, I've decided to post a soup that my brother-in-law Troy made tonight. I'll let Troy tell you about it...

It has been raining lately, and when it rains I crave soup. In Louisiana we love red beans. There is a tradition in New Orleans that every Monday is the day to eat red beans. Years ago Monday was wash day and wives would put on a pot of beans while they did the laundry. When they were finished with the wash, the beans were ready and the family was happy. Honestly, a meal of red beans and rice is one of my favorite meals. This soup is a take on traditional red beans. Hope you try it and enjoy it.


Troy's Famous Red Bean Soup
Serves 8-10

3/4 lb dried red beans (we used kidney, but any will do)
Water to soak

1 onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
5 cloves garlic, minced

1 quart chicken stock
1 quart water

1 ham hock or smoked ham steak

salt and pepper
1 Tbsp granulated garlic
2 Tbsp cajun seasoning or more to taste


Bring beans to a boil in a big pot of water, then turn the heat off, cover and let beans soak for about 1 1/2 hours. Rinse beans and set aside.

Saute onion, bell pepper, celery and garlic in canola oil unti tender. Add beans and seasonings and saute for about 10 minutes more. Add chicken stock, water and ham hock and bring to a boil again.

Let simmer for about 2 hours, then remove 2 ladles full and smash the beans to a paste and add them back to the pot to make the soup nice and creamy.

Serve with some good old-fashioned southern cornbread.

The Perfect Soup for Mashed Potato Lovers

Rule #1 in the soup world: You always trust your mother when she forwards a recipe. So when this fell out of a letter she sent me, I immediately stuck it to the fridge.

The title of this one says it all. It's perfect for tax day recovery or just hanging out on the weekend during an April shower. It's basically mashed potatoes with all the fixings. Only it's soup. Really! Typically, I only have "mashers" as a side with steak and veggies. I was pleased to find a good excuse to partake of everyone's favorite carb... without the added heaviness of a filet or New York strip.

Naturally, cheese is a key component in terms of salting this soup. This time I used a really sharp Irish cheddar, but it's up to you. When serving this, I like to cover the bottom of the soup bowls with shredded cheese and then pour the soup in over it.

As Ina Garten (Barefoot Contessa) would say: "How bad can that be!" (Of course, she's usually mixing a drink involving vodka at the time). ;> Trust me, it's gooood.

Mashed Potato Soup
6-8 servings

6 slices of bacon (optional)
About 5 large russet potatoes
(or the equivalent in red-skinned, but leave them unpeeled in Step 1)
4 tsp salt
1 cup sour cream
1 stick butter
2 2/3 whole milk (give or take depending on how thick you want it)
1 tsp black pepper
4 scallions, thinly sliced
1 cup shredded cheese (sharp cheddar or whatever you like!)

1. Peel, rinse, and cut the potatoes into thirds. Place them in a large pot with water to cover, add 2 tsp salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer and cook until the potatoes are soft about 30-45 minutes.

2. In the meantime, take a medium skillet and cook the bacon until crisp (or skip this if you don't eat meat). Transfer the bacon to a few paper towels to drain and set aside.

3. When the potatoes are soft, drain the water from the pot into the sink and mash them until smooth. Add the sour cream and butter and stir until melted. Add the milk, pepper and remaining salt and bring the soup back to a simmer.

4. Garnish the bottom of your soup bowls with shredded cheese. Serve hot, pouring the soup over the cheese. Then garnish with scallions, broken up bacon (if you like), and more cheese on top! Enjoy!

Modified from Country Living

Spring (Cabbage) Roll Soup

It’s time to drag out and dust off the old commitment to “eat right and exercise.” Ha! Don’t worry, we’re not about to ditch cheese or bacon or anything else that makes great soup. I just thought I’d try something a tad "healthier" for this week’s recipe… and WOW, did it pay off.

I can't tell you how excited I am to post this soup!

It all started back in the seventh grade when I befriended a girl named Cindy. We’ve been tight ever since and while this is great for many reasons, you’re wondering what the heck does all this have to do with soup! You came to this site looking for a soup recipe after all. Well, our friendship, spanning more than 15 years, has been peppered with her mother’s delicious Vietnamese food… and you better believe that means Vietnamese spring rolls! They are so mouth-watering that I’ve seen individuals (who will remain anonymous) consume entire bricks (foil packages containing 15-20 rolls) in a single sitting! Believe me, when you get your hands on a bundle of these, the elation you feel is overwhelming.

So, this past week, I began researching the possibility of eating one of my favorite foods without feeling so... sinful. Before I knew it I had the perfect jumping off point from a book called Authentic Vietnamese Cooking. The trick is cabbage! Cabbage rolls are essentially spring rolls without the rice wrappers. You make your favorite filling and wrap it in cabbage instead! Cabbage is much more nutritious anyway. It’s filled with Vitamins E and C. It improves digestion! It even gives your immune system (not to mention your colon) a kick!

Now, I warn you, this soup takes a little more effort than throwing things in a pot to simmer for awhile. Make sure you have a little time to push up your sleeves and get crafty. Or better yet, grab a partner to help you. Fortunately, Margaret was eager and willing to help tuck and fold and before we knew it, we had about 20 rolls. It takes a little time, but the investment is so worth it. I can’t wait to make this one for Cindy and do an update that includes her mother’s spring roll filling.

Spring (Cabbage) Roll Soup
Serves 2-4

6-8 shitake mushrooms
1 head of cabbage
6-8 scallions
4 oz. lean ground pork (or if you don't eat pork, double the shrimp)
6 oz. shrimp (shelled, deveined)--or small frozen salad shrimp
2 tablespoons of hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
salt and pepper
6 cups of chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup cilantro leaves

1. Clean and mince the shitake mushrooms. Mince the white portion of the scallions and place in a bowl with the chopped shitakes. Leave the green tops of the scallions intact and set aside. You'll be using these to tie the cabbage rolls.

2. Halve the cabbage leaves lengthwise. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Over high heat, blanch the cabbage leaves until just tender, 2-3 minutes. Remove the cabbage leaves and run under cold water. Drain.

3. Blanch the green scallion tops in the same pot until just tender, about 1 minute. Rinse under cold water. Drain. Tear into 20 long strips. Remember ou want these to be long-enough to tie around the roll. Set aside.

4. Finely chop the shrimp. I used tiny salad shrimp here, so I could skip the chopping. Add the shrimp and the ground pork to the shitakes and scallions. Add the soy sauce and hoisin sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Mix well with your hands to create a filling.

5. Place a teaspoon of the filling 1 inch from the wide or bottom edge of a cabbage leaf. Roll the cabbage leaf over the filling once, fold or tuck in the sides, and roll all the way to enclose the filling. Almost like you're wrapping the end of a gift. Take a green scallion strip and tie it around the around the bundle to secure the filling. No need to try to tie a complete knot. They should hold. Repeat the process until you have used all your cabbage leaves and scallion ties. There was leftover filling in my case, but I just threw it in the freezer to use next time.

6. Wash your hands. Pour the stock into a pot and bring it to a gentle boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and add the cabbage rolls. Add cilantro leaves to the stock. Simmer on medium-low until the cabbage is tender and the filling is cooked. Serve garnished with cilantro leaves and enjoy!

Recipe modified from Authentic Vietnamese Cooking by Corinne Trang.

Italian White Bean Soup with Sausage

In the kitchen, nothing ever ends up exactly the way I plan when I start out. This soup is a perfect example of the evolution of an idea. Here's a peek into how my brain works once I put a knife in my hand and start cooking away...

I woke up missing my mom's hearty Southern-style white beans and rice and headed out to the store for a few things: dried navy beans, ham hock, carrots, onion. Before I started to prepare the beans and rice, I dug around in the freezer and found some leftover pancetta and some spicy Italian sausage my friend Randy gave me and thought they'd be a great addition. I was inspired by a super simple kale and chick pea soup that I used to make a lot---and this is just a variation of that soup! I love that I get an excuse to use my leftover Parmigiano Reggiano rinds! (They add so much body to brothy soups.)

Some people get so hung up on following a recipe exactly, but I say that there are no real rules in cooking---well, maybe a few! But look, don't be afraid to substitute ingredients for what you have in your pantry. Don't have pancetta? Use bacon--or veggie bacon--or no bacon. Don't like white beans? Use red beans, chick peas, lima beans. In a hurry you can use canned beans instead of dried. The point is to have fun and experiment with new things! And cook for others when you can--it'll make you both feel good.

Italian White Bean Soup with Sausage
Serves 6

1/2 lb dry white navy beans (or great northern)
4 links Italian sausage (spicy or mild)
1/4 lb thinly sliced pancetta, diced

2 carrots, peeled and small dice
1 medium onion, small dice
4 cloves garlic, minced
1-28 oz can Italian plum tomatoes, crushed with hands
4 oz parmigiano-reggiano rinds
3 cups chicken broth
1 1/2 tsp fresh rosemary, cut
1 tsp fresh sage leaves, cut
4 handfuls fresh baby spinach leaves
salt and pepper to taste

1. Pick over dried beans, discarding any pebbles or shriveled beans. Place in bowl, cover with water and soak overnight.

2. Brown sausage links in soup pot, then take out and slice into rounds and set aside. In same pot, add the pancetta and cook until crisp, about 10 minutes. Add the onion, carrots, garlic and saute until soft and translucent.

3. Add the beans, sausage pieces, tomatoes, stock, herbs, and cheese rinds and bring to a boil, then let simmer for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until white beans are very tender. (Don't salt the beans until they are fully cooked...sometimes the salt makes them tough.)

4. When ready to serve, pull out the cheese rinds, season to taste with salt and pepper and stir in fresh spinach leaves. Serve with additional grated Parmigiano-Reggiano at the table.

Sweet Potato Chowder

Outside the leaves are swirling around us with reds, yellows, oranges, and browns. There's even a hint of green still left on a tree or two. So, I thought I would share the perfect recipe to take those beautiful autumn colors and bring them into your kitchen. This week, we're eating sweet potato chowder.

But wait! What exactly is the difference between soup and chowder, you ask. Good question.

Chowder comes from the French word "chaudiere" meaning cauldron and is a form of soup traditionally associated with fish or seafood. My sweet potato version, however, contains neither. This dish falls under the more flexible definition of chowder as a thick soup made from potatoes, milk and other vegetables that remain evident after being added into the pot.

We will certainly get to seafood chowders at some point, but for now, this recipe serves as a great excuse to catch the local farmer's market one last time before the end of the season. If you stick to my version, you'll be looking for sweet potatoes, red peppers, onions, and sweet corn. If you decide to improvise, you can certainly add leeks, carrots, other kinds of peppers, or whatever the market offers and your stomach desires. Just be sure to write and tell us about it!

The bottom line is that this chowder will fill your belly. It is hearty and nourishing. Don't use it as a starter or an appetizer. This recipe is worthy of being the main event. Cheese and cilantro quesadillas on the side for dunking are even better.

If you have the time, this is a soup that's even better the day after it's made, when all the flavors have had a chance to mingle together. Make it one night for dinner and take the rest to work for the lunch the following day.

Depending on the type of cheese you get for the quesadillas, this meal will cost you about $21-25 or roughly $5-6 a person.

Sweet Potato Chowder
4-6 servings

1/2 lb bacon, cut into small pieces or 1/8 c melted butter (I prefer it peppered)
1/2 large yellow onion, diced
1 sweet red pepper, diced
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
4-5 cups chicken or vegetable broth
2 (14 oz) bags of frozen sweet corn (or 7 ears corn, yielding about 3-4 cups, cut off the cob)
1 cup of milk (I use skim, but low-fat, whole, or cream could be used if you prefer)
1/2 tsp salt
chopped cilantro (for that hint of green)

1. Cook the bacon in a large stockpot over medium heat until it begins to crisp. If you prefer your bacon a little softer, that's fine too. Spoon off the bacon fat, but leave a thin layer.

2. Add the diced pepper and onion to the bacon and continue cooking, stirring occasionally until the vegetables are soft. Add the potatoes and chicken broth and simmer, covered for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

3. Stir in the corn, milk, and salt. Heat through, about 5-10 minutes.

4. Serve with quesadillas (below) and garnish with cilantro.

Cheese/Cilantro Quesadillas
for dipping and dunking in chowder

8 flour tortillas
butter
remaining cilantro
1 cup shredded cheese (I used manchego cheese this time, but I've also used Monterey Jack, a sharp cheddar, or cabrales in the past)

1. Melt a pat of butter in a non-stick pan over medium heat. Take a single tortilla and sprinkle it with shredded cheese and a touch of chopped cilantro. Top it with another tortilla, creating a quesadilla.

2. Place the quesadilla in the pan of melted butter and toast on one-side (about 2-3 mins), then flip and toast on the other side until it's a golden color.

3. Repeat 3 more times, keeping toasted quesadillas warm in the oven until ready to serve. Cut into wedges and enjoy alongside chowder for dipping!

*For our vegetarian readers, we've noted that the bacon/grease can be substituted with about 1/8 cup of melted butter. Vegetarian broth can also be used instead of chicken broth.

Adapted from the Sara's Secrets recipe.