Sunday, May 11, 2008

Creamy Sweet Corn Soup


Spring means fresh sweet corn is finally back in season! In cooking lately, I've been trying to highlight the simple flavors of food instead of my usual 25,000 ingredients per recipe, so this soup really exemplifies my attempt at simplicity.

I remember watching John Folse's cooking show on Public Television as a kid and he shared a story about how his grandmother never wasted anything; coercing every drop of flavor out of whatever ingredients she used. My inspiration here was from one of my favorites, Shrimp and Corn Soup, but I wanted to edit things down and make a soup that captured the pure essence of sweet corn. I also lightened up the recipe by using skim milk instead of the heavy cream that usually goes into soups like these. Believe it or not, this didn't really compromise the usual velvety texture as much as you'd think. What's my secret? Pureeing the corn, straining the soup, then letting it simmer for an additional 30 minutes gives it a very satisfying richness--without any added fat!

This recipe involves making a "corn cob stock" instead of using more traditional vegetable or chicken stock. I wanted to squeeze every last kernel (pun intended!) of flavor from the corn cobs instead of just tossing them in the trash. It doesn't take that much extra time or effort and the added step is well worth it. Besides, this stock smells heavenly and shows off the sweet goodness even before adding the corn kernels, so please set aside 30 minutes to make it!

This basic sweet corn soup is perfect as is, but can also be a base for whatever additions you like.

Corn Chowder: add potatoes and bacon
Cajun Corn Soup: add green peppers, celery and sausage
Mexican Corn Soup: cilantro, lime, chicken, tomatoes, green chiles

Adrienne's Dad even suggested topping it with lump crab meat. I could go on and on, but I think you get the idea. Enjoy!

Creamy Sweet Corn Soup
Serves 2-3

2 Tbsp unsalted butter
2 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 yellow onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

6 ears fresh sweet corn

4 cups water

2 cups skim milk

salt and pepper


1. Shuck corn and cut kernels from the cobs and set aside cobs and kernels in separate bowls.


2. Saute onion in butter and garlic on low until translucent, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and cook for an additional two minutes. Add flour and stir constantly for about 4 minutes--do not let it brown--then whisk in the water and milk slowly to avoid lumps. Add the corn cobs (but not the kernels) and let simmer for about 30 minutes to get all of the flavor from the cobs.


3. Remove the corn cobs, add in the corn kernels and let simmer for about 10 minutes.

4. Puree the soup with an immersion blender, then strain soup and return to the pot.

5. Add more milk as needed, depending on how thin you like your soup. If you have time, it's best to let the soup simmer for an additional 30 minutes with the lid off.

6. Garnish with your choice of fresh herbs and other accompaniments and serve. (I garnished the soup with a squeeze of fresh lime juice and chives and served it with a side of toasted whole wheat tortilla strips seasoned with chili powder, cumin, paprika and salt.)


Optional Accompaniments:

lime

scallions or chives
cilantro
seasoned and toasted wheat tortilla strips
avocado

sauteed corn
sour cream
cheese

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Saturday, October 28, 2006

Shrimp and Corn Soup

Growing up in South Louisiana, the gulf and freshwater shrimp practically jump out of the water into the fisherman's net. We must have had shrimp for dinner once a week when I was a kid, so maybe that's why they have always been my favorite type of seafood. On the weekends, it seemed anywhere we went--to the grocery store or to run errands--there would always be a truck on the side of the road with fresh shrimp for sale somewhere along the way. Riding along, I'd be on the lookout for the sign advertising Fresh Shrimp 3 lbs. for $5. Both of my parents make really good boiled spiced shrimp. I'd beg my mom to stop as I imagined peeling and popping those spicy shrimp into my mouth; juices running down my arms to my elbows. Mom would usually give in without much coercion. An obsession with food definitely runs in my family.

These days I'm still looking for ways to keep shrimp in my diet on a weekly basis and this soup definitely satisfies. South Louisiana Cajun chef John Folse makes a mean bowl of soup, so I often turn to his site for recipe ideas. This is his version of Shrimp and Corn Soup with a few minor changes from me. I think it's pretty darned perfect.

Shrimp and Corn Soup
Serves 12

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
1/4 cup olive oil
3 cups white corn, shucked fresh (reserve the cobs for the stock)
1 cup chopped onions
1 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup chopped red pepper
1/2 cup chopped green pepper
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup diced and seeded tomatoes

1 cup flour
1 cup tomato sauce
2 1/2 quarts seafood stock (see recipe below)
2 pounds shrimp, peeled and deveined (reserve shells)

1 cup heavy whipping cream
1/2 cup sliced green onions
1/2 cup chopped parsley
salt and black pepper to taste
Crystal hot sauce to taste (or your favorite brand)

1. In a large stock pot, melt butter and olive oil over medium high heat. Add the corn, onions, celery, bell peppers and garlic and saute for about five minutes or until the vegetables are wilted.

2. Add diced tomatoes, blend well into the vegetable mixture and add flour. Using a wire whisk, whip constantly for about 3 minutes, until a white roux is achieved. Do not brown.
3. Stirring constantly, add tomato sauce and stock, one ladle at a time until all is incorporated. Bring to a low boil and reduce to simmer. Add half of the shrimp and cook for thirty minutes.

4. Add the remaining shrimp, cream, green onions and parsley and cook for another ten minutes.

5. Season to taste with salt, pepper and hot sauce.

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Seafood Stock

A good seafood stock is easy to make and it makes a world of difference in the flavor of your soup. Plus it's a great way to utilize the ingredients you already have to their fullest. If you can get your hands on some fish bones and heads, great. Your seafood monger will likely give them to you for cheap! Otherwise, use the shrimp shells and some fish bouillon in a pinch.

2 pounds shrimp shells (and heads if you have them)
1 pound of fish bones and heads
OR 4 cubes fish bouillon
4 corn cobs (shucked)
3 quarts water
1 onion, halved
3 celery stalks, halved
4 cloves garlic, smashed

Saute shrimp shells in oil until they turn pink. Add all of the remaining ingredients, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, cover and let cook for about 30 minutes. Strain stock and it's ready to use!

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Wednesday, November 16, 2005

Sweet Potato Chowder

Sweet Potato Chowder
Outside the leaves are swirling around us with reds, yellows, oranges, and browns. There's even a hint of green still left on a tree or two. So, I thought I would share the perfect recipe to take those beautiful autumn colors and bring them into your kitchen. This week, we're eating sweet potato chowder.

But wait! What exactly is the difference between soup and chowder, you ask. Good question.

Chowder comes from the French word "chaudiere" meaning cauldron and is a form of soup traditionally associated with fish or seafood. My sweet potato version, however, contains neither. This dish falls under the more flexible definition of chowder as a thick soup made from potatoes, milk and other vegetables that remain evident after being added into the pot.

We will certainly get to seafood chowders at some point, but for now, this recipe serves as a great excuse to catch the local farmer's market one last time before the end of the season. If you stick to my version, you'll be looking for sweet potatoes, red peppers, onions, and sweet corn. If you decide to improvise, you can certainly add leeks, carrots, other kinds of peppers, or whatever the market offers and your stomach desires. Just be sure to write and tell us about it!
With Quesadillas for Dipping
The bottom line is that this chowder will fill your belly. It is hearty and nourishing. Don't use it as a starter or an appetizer. This recipe is worthy of being the main event. Cheese and cilantro quesadillas on the side for dunking are even better.

If you have the time, this is a soup that's even better the day after it's made, when all the flavors have had a chance to mingle together. Make it one night for dinner and take the rest to work for the lunch the following day.

Depending on the type of cheese you get for the quesadillas, this meal will cost you about $21-25 or roughly $5-6 a person.

Sweet Potato Chowder
4-6 servings

1/2 lb bacon, cut into small pieces or 1/8 c melted butter (I prefer it peppered)
1/2 large yellow onion, diced
1 sweet red pepper, diced
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
4-5 cups chicken or vegetable broth
2 (14 oz) bags of frozen sweet corn (or 7 ears corn, yielding about 3-4 cups, cut off the cob)
1 cup of milk (I use skim, but low-fat, whole, or cream could be used if you prefer)
1/2 tsp salt
chopped cilantro (for that hint of green)

1. Cook the bacon in a large stockpot over medium heat until it begins to crisp. If you prefer your bacon a little softer, that's fine too. Spoon off the bacon fat, but leave a thin layer.


2. Add the diced pepper and onion to the bacon and continue cooking, stirring occasionally until the vegetables are soft. Add the potatoes and chicken broth and simmer, covered for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

3. Stir in the corn, milk, and salt. Heat through, about 5-10 minutes.

4. Serve with quesadillas (below) and garnish with cilantro.


Cheese/Cilantro Quesadillas
for dipping and dunking in chowder

8 flour tortillas
butter
remaining cilantro
1 cup shredded cheese (I used manchego cheese this time, but I've also used Monterey Jack, a sharp cheddar, or cabrales in the past)

1. Melt a pat of butter in a non-stick pan over medium heat. Take a single tortilla and sprinkle it with shredded cheese and a touch of chopped cilantro. Top it with another tortilla, creating a quesadilla.

2. Place the quesadilla in the pan of melted butter and toast on one-side (about 2-3 mins), then flip and toast on the other side until it's a golden color.

3. Repeat 3 more times, keeping toasted quesadillas warm in the oven until ready to serve. Cut into wedges and enjoy alongside chowder for dipping!

*For our vegetarian readers, we've noted that the bacon/grease can be substituted with about 1/8 cup of melted butter. Vegetarian broth can also be used instead of chicken broth.

Adapted from the Sara's Secrets recipe.

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